Text and organization: Frank Flemming Pedersen, FFP Kommunikation.
Danske Tursejlere thanks Visit Lolland-Falster, Bo Mertz, Kim Warner/Flickr, Mikkel Heriba, Leif Tuxen, Henrik Hildebrandt, Ingrid Riis, Niclas Jessen, Felecool for the loan of photos.
Released in 2023
INTRODUCTION
Sailing in the Småland Sea offers so many wonderful opportunities for special experiences that it can be difficult to single out just a few. Islands and islets lie like pearls on a string in the waters between Zealand, Lolland, Falster and Møn. The area is known for being a paradise and a favorite feeding and breeding area for waterfowl such as eider, shoveler, tern, tern, greylag goose and avocet.
It's not uncommon to see porpoises on your boat trip, and as large parts of the Småland Sea are a nature conservation area for seals, they can also be found in these parts. So there's plenty to keep an eye out for when roaming the Småland Sea. For example, on Fejø, which is the largest of the islands. And we're talking about an island of around 16 km2 with just over 475 inhabitants. But during the summer season, more people come to the island. Many more, because the climate and sights are definitely worth a visit.
When people think of Femø, many associate it with jazz and women's camp. The jazz festival was launched in 1970, and the following year the women's camp pitched its first tents on Femø. And it has to be said that the two festivals have found a very beautiful backdrop for their activities.
The island offers many nature experiences with winding roads, willow hedges and hilly landscapes. Not without a certain self-irony, the highest point on the island is called Issemosebjerg, which rises 22 meters into the air. Cycling and hiking are a must on Femø. The island has two towns: Nørreby and Sønderby. The many old houses and a maze of small paths are one of the island's distinctive features. Fruit growing and farming used to be an important occupation for both Femø and Fejø. Today, agriculture and tourism are the main activities.
Small but good in the Småland Sea
While the ferry from Kragenæs on Lolland docks on the west side of Fejø, the marina, Dybvig Harbour, is sheltered from the wind on the south side. The harbor was originally built in the early 1800s and used by barges and dinghies. It is a small and very atmospheric harbor with older harbor buildings that emphasize the authentic atmosphere.
We're up early and the morning coffee is over quickly. From the harbor it's not far to the island's main artery that runs between the two towns: Østerby and Vesterby, and with a pair of good walking shoes on your feet it's actually possible to walk around to Fejø's exciting attractions. Many people - including us - now choose to take their bikes in case they make a find or two that needs to be "transported" back to the boat.
FEJØ MILL
Fejø Mill is located at Herredsvej. The mill is a so-called Dutch mill and was built in 1858. In 1905 it had its moving day. It was dismantled from its original location and moved to its current site. Here it was in use until 1950. Since then, the mill fell into disrepair until local people formed a mill guild in 1996 to restore the beautiful mill. They succeeded, in part with financial support from Realdania, which funded a grant for new blades.
Each mill blade weighs one ton. The blades have to be turned manually and the mill has to be curved - that is, it has to be turned upwind when the wind blows. The mill cap must be rotated at regular intervals, otherwise the whole thing will be crooked. The wings need to be turned slightly after rain so they don't rot. It's the cranks, a group of volunteers, who take turns to do the job. Since 2007, the mill guild has run a shop in the mill, selling both handicrafts and the island's many quality products. The shop also acts as a tourist information center for visitors to the island.
THE MUSEUM TELLS
It is also on Herredsvej that we pass the island's local museum, where a number of objects from the past to the present are on display. There are also interesting stories to be told about the farms, ships and ferries and local traditions.
WITHOUT FOOD AND DRINK
We're not afraid to go sugar cold on our walk around Feje. The roadside stalls are full of local delicacies, and we can also get a meal at the eateries. Likewise, many local producers offer tempting meals and delicious drinks.
And then of course there is Fejøfrugten. The island is home to one of the country's largest fruit growers with 300,000 fruit trees that send 3,000 tons of plums, pears and apples to the mainland every year. Roadside stalls abound with apples, plums, apple cider and seasonal vegetables. The ferry landing with many daily departures to Kragenæs is located in the far west, and the trip back to Dybvig Harbor goes from Vesterby to the southeast to turn northeast and connect to Herredsvej again.
FEJØ CHURCH
Fejø Church is located on the way home and is well worth a visit. The church was built between 1240 and 1265 and is idyllically located close to the south coast of the island. According to an old legend, this slightly remote location in relation to Vesterby and Østerby is because the towns' residents were nervous that those buried in the cemetery would "walk again". In reality, the location is due to the fact that the church was used as a parish church by the surrounding islands of Askø and Femø until the mid-16th century, and that the church, like other coastal churches, was also used as a landmark by seafarers.
In the Middle Ages, the church was dedicated to the seafaring saint Saint Nicolaus, and it has three church ships suspended: the naval frigate "Enigheden" from 1811, the "Ebenetzer" from 1811 and the coffee ship "Familien Iversen" from around 1900.
Back in the harbor, you may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the two veteran wooden boats - Kristiane and Mæfikken - which are maintained by Fejø Drivkvaselaug. They were originally built on Fejø and now help keep alive the tradition of the pear pods sailing to Copenhagen with fresh fruit. We calm down, let the impressions sink in and go to sleep. Tomorrow we weigh anchor and head to Femø.
FEMØ - AND ALL THAT JAZZ
We are slowly approaching the entrance to Femø Harbor, where we don't have to worry about running aground. The ferry from Lolland docks here in the harbor, so there is plenty of space and depth. We find our mooring and take a breather before the practical chores are done. On the harbor is the sailor's house "Sten- bidderen" with kitchen, toilet and shower as well as washing machines etc. And that's where we're heading, as we've collected some clothes over the last few days that could do with a "freshening up". The children have already taken over the Stone Biter, as there are plenty of games and equipment for water activities.
We have plenty of time on Femø and the bikes are ready for action. The circumference of Femø is about 14.5 km, so walking around the island along the beach is manageable. But a vote among the crew members showed a clear majority in favor of the bike rides. Despite its small size, there are still 35 km of public roads to ride on. And there's plenty to see along the way. There is a special atmosphere on Femø. The wildlife is unique, as is the hilly cultural landscape, the highest point of which is 22 meters above sea level, which the bikes can easily conquer.
THE FIRST PRIEST
Close to the harbor we find the island's beautiful old church with a very well maintained cemetery, a popular excursion destination. Femø Church was built around 1500. It was built using rough and split boulders and monk stones for the window and door openings and in the upper part of the masonry. The monk stones were probably made close to the church, as the remains of an old oven have been found in the cliff below the church. In the north wall of the nave you can still see traces of the original women's entrance, and in the south wall of the choir you can also see traces of the church's priest's entrance.
It wasn't until 1537 that the church got its own priest. Here Hr. Jørgen Christensen took over the church as the first Protestant pastor. Since then, there has been an unbroken line of 44 priests attached to Femø Church.
BAR CHAIN
Out to the east by the cottage development, a lonely building stands out and attracts attention. It is a bark boiler, which used to be common at all fishing villages in Denmark. Today, they have all but disappeared.
In the old days, sails and fishing gear were made from natural materials such as wool, flax, hemp and cotton. All materials needed to be impregnated to increase their strength and extend their durability. This impregnation could take place in a bark boiler, which is a furnace with a walled-in boiler, combustion chamber and chimney at a height of 2-3 meters.
The bark varnish consisted of water and an impregnating agent. The best was catechu, popularly known as "cat cow", extracted from the bark of acacia trees. During the 2. During World War II, catechu was difficult to obtain, but birch bark and oak bark proved to be a useful and much cheaper substitute. The bark extracts contain, among other things, tannic acid and dye, which gives the yarns a red-brownish color.
THE ART
There is plenty to see on the tour. Art lovers will notice the fine sculptures on the island. In Nørreby Anlæg you'll see Hanne Varming's three bronze sculptures of the island's old baker's wife, Amalie. Holger Wederkinch's limestone sculpture Los, Ræv og Urhane can be seen at Sønderby Gadekær, and a small bronze temple in memory of Erna Wederkinch has been erected in Ernas Eng by the vicarage. Erik Varming's sculptures, Metamorphosis, Orion and Elektra can be seen at Bastmosen, Præstevangen.
There are other small and large works of art scattered across the island. Some that are both practical and cheerful. The Femø bench, for example, was designed by Kaj Larsen in 2007 after an idea by Annelise Svensson. In 2008, the bench was put into production by Arne Andersen. It is manufactured on the island and is decorated in many versions by local and foreign artists. The 27 benches are for rest and smiles for all.
ADVENTUROUS FOR KIDS
We pull our bikes along the Fairy Tale Tree and happily look up into the willow trees, which hide little quirks. In the willow trees are characters - witches, trolls, princesses and soldiers - from famous fairy tales. Immediately the guessing contest begins. Who can see which fairy tale the figures symbolize? Creative and artistic - and fun for children and adults.
In Nørreby we stop by Smuthullet in Dronningestræde in Nørreby Anlæg, where there is an open workshop at the old smithy where children can come and be creative when accompanied by an adult. Tools, materials and models are free to use.
MUSIC AND DIVERSITY
Femø is not just a quiet idyll and birdsong from above. The island is also the setting for two major events that are making waves beyond the country's borders. The world's oldest women's camp is held over a few summer weeks and has over 100 participants per week. As the women's camp website says, it brings together all kinds of women: old redstockings, mothers with children, career women, sports enthusiasts, lesbians, bisexuals and heterosexuals for workshops, fellowship and socializing. The camp has existed since 1971.
One year younger is Femø Jazz Festival, which is one of the country's oldest festivals with roots in New Orleans Jazz. But they also keep their eyes and ears open for new talents and trends that can perform in the festival site's big tent. If small is good, then Fejø and Femø are extra good. The small islands may not seem like much, but there are big and small experiences to be had here in the Småland Sea. We're talking about communities that have hundreds of years of experience of living with and from nature. Who have developed their own culture and traditions. To get a small insight into this is great. In fact, there is so much to explore in this region that we can only say we've seen something. Maybe not even the most important - but we'd love to come back.
