Organization: Frank Flemming Pedersen, FFP Communication.
Danish Touring Sailors would like to thank Frank Flemming Pedersen, VisitDenmark, Colourbox, and others for lending us photos.
Published in 2014
INTRODUCTION
In the flat landscape of northeast Funen, a gap opens up to the south, drawing curious and inquisitive sailors toward it. To port lies the breathtaking coastal landscape of Fyns Hoved and the Hindsholm peninsula, which juts out like a crab's claw into the Kattegat. On the starboard side is the flat isthmus of Enebærodde, which stretches out in vain into the water towards the opposite shore. We are entering Odense Fjord through Gabet: the passage that marks the transition from the "endless" sea of the Kattegat to the scenic fjord that leads to the capital of Funen.
The gap is approximately 400 meters wide, but the channel is around 170 meters wide and 10-11 meters deep. There is plenty of space, as the entrance was designed for large container ships sailing to Lindø Terminal. From here to Odense itself, the channel is 7.5 meters wide. All areas are well marked, so the voyage should not cause any problems. However, the tidal change causes a strong current at Gabet, and if the wind is coming from the north or south, the sea can be rough when the wind and current combine. There are many suitable places to anchor, but check your nautical chart for the sailing route, as there may be very shallow water.
Odense Fjord is 13 km long, and there is much to see on the way to Odense. Twenty-five small islands and islets are beautifully scattered across the fjord, and approximately in the middle of the southeastern part lies Munkebo and the former Lindø shipyard, which today is an industrial park, among other things.
The fjord has a rich animal and bird life and is an important resting place for migratory birds. A large number of gulls, terns, herons, eiders, and swans breed in the area, and this must of course be respected by hikers, cyclists, sailors, and others who may come close to the animals.
Odense is nestled comfortably at the bottom of the fjord. Funen's largest city has roots dating back to the Viking Age and is a thriving city with many cultural offerings for its 175,000 residents and visitors. The city is currently undergoing a major makeover that will transform the inner city from an ugly duckling into a beautiful swan. When you live in Hans Christian Andersen's city, you're bound to have vision and inspiration, right?
Sailing experiences at Odense Fjord
"It was so lovely out in the countryside." It is difficult not to quote the national poet H. C. Andersen when we are on Funen and so close to his birthplace. Andersen appreciated the countryside, and it is certain that he found great inspiration in the beautiful nature around Odense Fjord, which was magnificent at the time. And still is today. Join us on our tour, which will focus on the fjord's surroundings. Considering the small size of the fjord, the experiences are much greater than one might think. That is quite true.
KERTEMINDE – GABET (ENEBÆRODDE)
The last large ice cream from Vaffelhuset has been consumed for this round. It is time to depart, and although we can look back on some exciting days in Amanda's city, we are looking forward to the trip around Fyns Hoved, into Odense Fjord, and to our stay in Odense itself. But before we leave the fishing girl behind, we have to visit two major attractions in the city. First a little culture, then nature.
The Johannes Larsen Museum gives us a hint of what awaits us on our journey. This beautiful museum houses the magnificent art created by the Funen painters more than 100 years ago, inspired by the simple life in the local communities. The paintings are a tribute to family life, living rooms, flowers on windowsills, gardens, fishing boats in the harbor, fields, the coast and cliffs, and wildlife. Here, traditional values are conveyed, despite the fact that development was rapidly advancing, and soon many of these small communities were deserted.
In Kerteminde, you can walk on the seabed without getting wet. At Fjord & Bælt, you can walk through a 40-meter-long underwater tunnel and observe rock reefs, seaweed, mussels, starfish, and dogfish. The children are enthusiastic and their eyes are as big as saucers. And the cheers are palpable when the seals and porpoises play tag in the open pools. Fjord & Bælt has three porpoises in its 4 million liter harbor pool. These small whales are totally protected in Denmark, and we will soon have more of these beautiful animals to see. In free dressage.
But we are heading north. The weather is perfect with good visibility, which we are happy about as we pass Stavrehoved on our way to Romsø. Unfortunately, we are a little late to see the magnificent sight that unfolds on Romsø in the spring months. Here, hundreds of hawthorn bushes bloom, enveloping Romsø in the scent of flowers, light green leaves, and white petals.
In return, we see whales. The first porpoises appear. The world's largest concentration of whales is found in this part of the Great Belt. Up to 5,000 porpoises live in this area. Inside Hindsholm, the hilly landscape stretches out, and before long we have rounded the cliffs of Fyns Hoved. You can easily get up close to this fantastic natural landscape by mooring in Korshavn just inside the curved headland. From there, there are good cycling and hiking opportunities to see the flora and fauna. And if we had arrived a little earlier, we might have met the painters Johannes Larsen and Fritz Syberg on an inspirational trip.
EGENSEDYBET
We are approaching Gabet: the entrance to the fjord. The current can be strong here, so we are keeping our eyes open. Inside, the fjord widens into a funnel shape. We are at the widest point and have decided to zigzag from coast to coast towards the funnel's final narrowing in Odense. We are heading east towards Egensedybet. The harbor, which has green areas and a unique view of the fjord, will be our first stop, where we will take a trip north to Enebærodde. Then it's time to get out the bikes.
Enebærodde belongs to the Hofmansgave estate, which is beautifully situated by the fjord. The estate's park is open to the public and houses a sketch museum and a potato museum. Nature, culture, art, and potatoes. There is something here for both the soul and the stomach. The park is also an example of several generations' interest in and history of horticulture. There are many different rare trees, some of which are up to 200 years old.
Out towards the 6 km long Odden, we meet several anglers who are specifically targeting sea trout. This is a sight we see in many, many places in the fjord, which is known for its good fishing waters. Enebærodde itself is a mixture of forest and heathland, and the area is a paradise for birds and wildlife. Funen's largest heathland is also found here. And vipers? Yes, indeed.
BREGNØR FISHING VILLAGE
Then we cross Odense Fjord to the small and cozy Bregnør Fiskeleje. Again, we keep a careful lookout for commercial vessels, bottom-set gillnets, and other fishing gear, and easily find our way into the harbor. We haven't come here to relax. On the contrary, we want to climb the 58-meter-high Munkebo Bakke, visit Lindø, and walk a bit along the Munkebostien trail. The harbor in Bregnør had its heyday when fjord fishing was at its peak, and it is conveniently located for our plans: a visit to Munkebo Hill, which was also a popular destination in the old days. And you understand why when you reach the top. From here, there is a magnificent view, and if you climb the red brick tower, large parts of North Funen, the Kattegat, and Samsø lie right ahead.
As recreational sailors and maritime enthusiasts, we simply must visit Lindø, which gave its name to the now closed Lindø shipyard, which once built the largest container ships in the world. The shipyard was established in 1956 and closed its doors in 2012. But the blue gantry crane, which is more than 100 meters high, still stands. The area is now an industrial park and is regaining its former glory, now that a number of companies in the offshore industry have established themselves there.
Adjacent to Lindø Industrial Park lies the town of Munkebo, beautifully situated on Kertinge Nor, which has the world's largest concentration of jellyfish: 50-100 animals per cubic meter of water. We will go swimming elsewhere in Odense Fjord. There are also traces of the Vikings, who were diligent in laying underwater barriers to protect Munkebo from dangers from the sea.
CLIFF MOUNTAIN
We zigzag again. We are heading for the west bank and Klintebjerg, which in former times was a large shipping port for Odense, but which also housed a salt works, a shell factory, a vinegar brewery, a sawmill, and a chicory distillery. However, the ravages of time have taken their toll, and none of this remains. Instead, there is idyll and nature, which we will take a closer look at. We are going on a trip with the fishing boat Lunden to Vigelsø, which is the largest island in Odense Fjord. The island is owned by the Danish Forest and Nature Agency, which, through a large restoration project, has transformed the cultivated landscape and created good conditions for a rich animal and bird life. You can sail to Vigelsø in your own rowboat, canoe, or kayak. But remember that special rules apply for the protection of wildlife reserves.
The fishing boat docks at the pier on Vigelsø, and we start our tour at the information center at the end of the pier. Here we receive a brief briefing about the island's nature and history. Vigelsø is best experienced on foot, so we put on our walking shoes and follow the marked route 2.3 km around the northern tip of the island, which is planted with oak, lime, and beech trees and offers a beautiful view of the Lindø area. To the south, we enter the bird tower and watch the wading birds foraging.
ODENSE CANAL
Odense did not originally have direct, natural access to the sea, which was a hindrance to a thriving industrial and commercial city at a time when waterways were the primary means of transport. Therefore, a couple of hundred canal workers set to work with hand shovels and wheelbarrows, and after eight years of manual labor, the 5 km long Odense Canal was inaugurated in 1803.
The new canal port meant new opportunities for Odense's merchants, and when the industrial era came to Denmark in the second half of the 19th century, larger ships and increased cargo volumes placed new demands on the port, which underwent many expansions until the 1970s, when activities began to decline.
Back in the old harbor, there are many exciting and diverse buildings that form an important part of Odense's historical identity. Warehouses, cranes, and silos tell the story of when the harbor was the city's gateway to the world. The Fynsværket power plant's huge 235-meter chimney is, of course, striking and visible, and the plant is one of the companies that benefits greatly from the canal, which is used to transport fuel to the power plant and supply it with cooling water.
STIGE Ø
City life is now beginning to draw the crew, who need to stretch their legs on the cobbled streets and alleys of Odense. But before we give in to the temptations of the cafés and the city's shops and sights, we make a stop at one of Denmark's most exciting landfills. Or rather: former landfills. Under the slogan "From landfill to playground," Stigøs former waste disposal site has been transformed into an oasis of recreational activities and outdoor experiences in the 25-30 m high hilly landscape. Stige Ø is a peninsula between Odense Fjord and Odense Canal. Here you will find a mountain bike track, playground, campfire site, shelters, barbecue hut, fishing spots, hiking trails, and so on.
On Stige Ø Nord, there are approximately 30 small, self-built houses made of wood, tar paper, and other recycled materials. These are the Sorthusene houses. The first house was built in the early 1900s, and by the early 1960s, the number of houses had reached 63. They are used as a holiday colony for a mixed group of fishermen, hunters, and former shipyard workers from Lindø.
The marina on Stige Island is located at the southern end, and 200 meters further south you can take Denmark's smallest ferry, which transports passengers across the 60-meter-wide canal in less than two minutes. There is a city bus to Odense city center from here. We'll save that part of the party for later and do our grocery shopping in Stige town instead. Then we'll be ready for the last leg of this trip: a quick trip to Odense City.
ODENSE CENTER
Late in the afternoon, we arrive in Odense, where we can choose to take the narrow passage into Odense Motorboat Club's harbor or go a little deeper into the harbor and moor at Sejlog Motorboat Club Frem. Both places have buses to Odense city center, but you can also easily walk or cycle there.
H. C. Andersen Museum: Odense is a cornucopia of cultural offerings, experiences, shopping, and history. Of course, we can't sample everything, but we can select a few highlights. We must see the museum about the national poet H. C. Andersen's house, located in the old town, which is the main museum, and the exhibitions tell the story of Andersen's remarkable life: from his childhood as the poor son of a shoemaker in Odense, his schooling, and the difficult times on his way to achieving his dreams in Copenhagen. You can follow the poet's acquaintances, love life, artistic career, and his many travels.
Carl Nielsen Museum: Music is a must, and of course Funen is also home to one of Denmark's most famous composers, Carl Nielsen. He and his wife, sculptor Anne Marie Carl-Nielsen, are honored in a museum close to Andersen's, which showcases the lives and works of the two artists. The exhibition is arranged chronologically and tells the story of two highly independent artists who, both together and separately, had a decisive influence on Danish cultural life.
Odense Zoo: The weather is always perfect for a trip to the zoo. In Odense, there are animals from all over the world, both indoors and outdoors. From the mighty lions and striped zebras of the savannah, to the monkeys and birds of the rainforest, to the tropical sea creatures and penguins in their finest plumage. There is always something to see at the zoo.
Brandts Klædefabrik: Not many cities can offer such a concentrated environment for culture and experiences as Odense. In Brandts Klædefabrik, located right in the heart of the city. In this special Latin quarter, close to the city's pedestrian streets, exclusive shopping is combined with specialty shops, a cinema, a student center, art, and culture all year round. Here, life is enjoyed in the many cafés and restaurants and at the music venues. On a good day, the place is teeming with people, so there is plenty to see if you don't want to take part in the cultural offerings of Brandts Museum of Art and Visual Culture, the Danish Media Museum, the Funen Art Academy, and Odense Film Workshop.
The Funen Village: Just south of the city center, we find the open-air museum The Funen Village, which consists of a number of farms and houses that originally stood in villages around Funen and the islands. It is like walking around in Hans Christian Andersen's time with half-timbered buildings, flowering gardens, fences and farm animals, village ponds and cobbled streets. Often there are also guides dressed in historical costumes.
Did we see everything? Did we see most of it? Did we see the most important parts? If not, we'll have to go back. That's for sure.
